How to Get Pokémon Cards Graded: Step by Step for 2026

To get a Pokémon card graded, pick cards that are worth more graded than raw, check their condition, choose a grading company such as PSA, CGC or Beckett, and submit online through that company's website. Then sleeve each card, put it in a semi rigid holder, pack it securely and ship it. Weeks or months later the cards come back sealed in slabs with a grade from 1 to 10. You can also submit in person at some card shows, or through a card shop or group submitter if you would rather not ship yourself.

That is the short version. The details are where collectors lose money, usually by grading the wrong cards, declaring the wrong value or packing cards in a way that slows everything down. Here is the full process, start to slab.

Step 1: Pick cards that are actually worth grading

Grading costs money every time, whether the card comes back a 10 or a 6. So the first step is deciding which cards deserve it.

For modern Pokémon cards, almost all of the value in grading sits at the top. A chase card such as a special illustration rare or an alternate art can sell for several times its raw price as a 10, while the same card as a 9 often sells for only a little more than a clean raw copy. That means a modern card is usually only worth grading if you think it has a real shot at a 10.

Vintage Pokémon cards work differently. A Base Set, Jungle or Fossil holo, especially a 1st Edition copy, can be worth grading at a 7 or 8, because graded vintage cards sell at a strong premium and buyers trust the slab to confirm the card is authentic and unaltered.

Before you submit anything, look up recent sold prices for the card raw and at the grades it could realistically get. Compare the exact card, including the set number and whether it is holo, reverse holo or 1st Edition, and check sales for the specific grading company and grade you expect. A PSA 10 sale tells you nothing about what your card is worth as a CGC 8. Then subtract the grading fee, shipping both ways and the fees you will pay when you sell. If the card only makes money at a perfect 10 and you are not confident it is one, keep it raw. Our guide on what cards are worth grading walks through the math step by step.

Step 2: Check the condition before you pay

Graders look at four things: centering, corners, edges and surface. Pokémon cards have a few weak spots worth knowing.

Centering. Modern Pokémon cards are often printed off center, and centering is the most common reason a pack fresh card misses a 10. Measure both directions on the front and the back.

Edges and the back. Pokémon cards have dark blue backs, and the smallest nick or whitening on a back edge shows clearly. Check every edge under a bright light.

Surface. Holo and full art cards show scratches, print lines and fingerprints. Tilt the card under a lamp to see them. Many holos have tiny print lines straight out of the pack.

Corners. Look for any whitening or softness at the tips.

If you are not sure how condition terms map to grades, our Pokémon card condition guide explains what near mint, lightly played and the rest actually mean.

A quick pre grade saves money on cards that were never going to make it. Cards AI scores centering, corners, edges and surface from a photo and gives a Cards AI Grade, which is an AI estimate only, alongside recent sold prices for the card raw and graded. It is a fast way to sort a stack before you look closely at the finalists yourself.

Step 3: Choose a grading company

Four companies grade most Pokémon cards in the US. Each has a different strength.

PSA. The largest grader and the one most buyers look for. PSA 10 Pokémon cards generally sell for the highest prices, which makes PSA the default if you plan to sell. The tradeoff is demand. PSA has carried a very large backlog in 2026, and at the time of writing its cheapest Value tier, 39.99 dollars a card for cards declared up to 500 dollars, is temporarily paused. That makes Standard the entry point, at 59.99 dollars a card for cards up to 1,000 dollars with an estimated turnaround of 70 to 80 business days. Priority is 79.99 dollars for cards up to 1,500 dollars and about 50 to 60 business days, and Express is 199 dollars for cards up to 2,500 dollars and about 20 to 30 business days. Higher tiers run up to 599 dollars a card for cards worth up to 10,000 dollars. Express and above also include grader notes that explain the defects behind your grade, which is useful if you are deciding whether to resubmit.

CGC. Very popular with Pokémon collectors, and no longer the newcomer it once was. CGC grades on a 10 point scale topped by Gem Mint 10 and, above that, a Pristine 10 for cards that are flawless under ten times magnification, which comes with a special gold label. You can submit with a free account, and paid memberships add a 10 percent discount at the Associate and Premium levels or 20 percent at Elite. Tiers are set by declared value, from Bulk, which takes a mix of at least 25 cards worth up to 500 dollars each, through Economy, Standard, Express and WalkThrough, up to unlimited value. CGC says every card is inspected by at least two graders. Many Pokémon collectors use CGC for modern cards they plan to keep, and for bulk submissions of mid value cards.

Beckett (BGS). Known for subgrades on centering, corners, edges and surface, and for the Black Label, which goes to cards that score a perfect 10 on all four. Beckett is strict, and some collectors aim for it with cards they believe are flawless.

TAG. A newer grader that uses imaging technology and gives a detailed report on each card. It has a growing following among modern Pokémon collectors who want to see exactly why a card got its grade.

If you plan to sell, PSA usually gives the best resale value for Pokémon. If you are grading for your own collection, or sending a large batch of mid value cards, CGC or TAG may suit you better. Fees, service levels and turnaround change often, so check each company's current pricing before you decide. Our breakdown of PSA grading cost covers PSA's tiers and upcharges in more detail.

Step 4: Submit online

Every major grader runs submissions through its website. The steps are similar everywhere.

Create an account on the grader's site.

Start a new submission and choose a service level. Service levels differ by price and speed, and each has a maximum declared value per card.

Enter each card. You will search for the card by set and number and add it to your submission form. Be exact: the right set, the right card number, and whether it is 1st Edition, shadowless, a reverse holo or a specific promo.

Declare a value for each card. The declared value is what you expect the card to be worth after grading, not what you paid for it. This number decides which service level the card qualifies for and how it is insured. If you declare too low and the card grades high, graders such as PSA can charge an upcharge to move it to the correct tier. Declare honestly based on recent sold prices for the grade you expect.

Pay and print your packing slip. Include it in the box.

Step 5: Pack the cards the way graders want

Packing is where a lot of first time submitters slow themselves down or damage cards.

Photograph every card first, front and back, in good light. It gives you a record of each card's condition and any small identifying marks before it leaves your hands, which is useful for insurance and for your own peace of mind.

Sleeve every card in a clean penny sleeve.

Put each sleeved card in a semi rigid holder, often called a card saver. Most graders prefer semi rigid holders over hard top loaders, because they are easier to remove the card from without damage. Check your grader's current packing instructions, since they spell out exactly what they accept.

Do not use tape on the holders or anything that makes them hard to open.

Stack the holders between two pieces of cardboard, band them loosely so they cannot slide, and pack them snugly in a sturdy box with padding so nothing moves.

Ship with tracking and insurance, and keep your receipt and tracking number until the cards come home.

Step 6: Wait, then check your grades

Once the grader receives your box, your submission moves through stages such as arrival, grading and quality control, and you can usually track progress in your online account. Turnaround depends on the service level and the grader's backlog at the time, and the cheapest levels can take months.

Inside, the process follows the same order at every major grader. First the card is authenticated. At PSA, graders check that it is genuine and look for signs of tampering such as trimming or recoloring, and a card that fails is not given a number grade. Then the card is graded on condition. Finally it is sealed in a tamper evident case with a label showing the grade and a certification number.

Grades usually post online before the cards ship back. When they return, each card is sealed in a tamper evident slab with a label showing the grade and a certification number. You can look up that number on the grader's website to confirm the card and grade, which is exactly what buyers will do.

Other ways to get Pokémon cards graded

You do not have to ship to the grader yourself.

Card shows. Major grading companies attend some of the larger card shows and accept submissions on site, which saves shipping and lets you hand cards over in person.

Card shops and group submitters. A card shop cannot grade your cards itself, but many shops collect cards from customers and submit them to PSA, CGC or another grader together, handling the paperwork and shipping for a fee. This is a good option for your first submission, especially if you are nervous about mailing valuable cards. Our card shop directory lists shops near you, and it is worth calling to ask whether they run submissions and which graders they use.

GameStop. GameStop has partnered with PSA to accept cards for grading at participating stores, so you can hand cards over in person instead of packing and shipping them. Not every store takes part, so call ahead.

Photo grading services. Some services grade cards from photos and send back a condition report or a printed label while the card stays with you. These can be useful for a second opinion, but they do not authenticate or seal the card, and buyers will not treat them like a slab from a major grader.

Mistakes that cost Pokémon collectors money

Grading modern cards that are not 10 candidates. This is the most common one. A 9 on many modern cards barely beats raw value once fees are counted.

Pricing with the wrong comps. Valuing your card off a PSA 10 sale when it will realistically grade an 8, or off a different printing of the same Pokémon, makes almost any submission look profitable on paper.

Declaring too low a value to get a cheaper tier. The upcharge when the card grades high can cost more than choosing the right tier at the start.

Skipping the back. Plenty of cards with perfect fronts lose the 10 on a back edge.

Rushing to grade during a hype spike. If a card's price is spiking right after a set release, it may cool by the time a slow submission comes back.

Grading damaged or altered cards. Cards that have been trimmed, recolored or cleaned with chemicals can come back as altered or authentic only, with no number grade.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get my Pokémon cards graded? Choose cards worth grading, check their condition, pick a grader such as PSA, CGC or Beckett, and submit online through the grader's website. Sleeve each card, put it in a semi rigid holder, pack it securely and ship it with tracking and insurance. You can also submit through a card shop or at some card shows.

Which company is best for grading Pokémon cards? PSA usually brings the highest resale value, which makes it the most popular choice for cards you plan to sell. CGC is very popular with Pokémon collectors and offers optional subgrades, Beckett is known for strict subgrades, and TAG gives a detailed imaging report.

How much does it cost to get a Pokémon card graded? It depends on the grader, the service level and the declared value of the card. At the time of writing, PSA's Standard tier is 59.99 dollars a card for cards declared up to 1,000 dollars, with its cheaper Value tier temporarily paused, and faster tiers cost more. CGC offers a Bulk tier for 25 or more cards and discounts for paid members. Add shipping both ways and insurance, and check current price lists before you submit, because they change often.

Can a card shop grade my Pokémon cards? Not itself. Only grading companies such as PSA, CGC, Beckett and TAG can grade and slab cards, but many card shops collect cards and submit them to those companies for you, and some GameStop stores accept cards for PSA grading.

How long does it take to get Pokémon cards graded? It depends on the service level and the grader's backlog. Faster, more expensive levels can take weeks, while the cheapest levels can take months when demand is high.

Can I get Pokémon cards graded in person? Sometimes. Major graders accept submissions on site at some large card shows, and many local card shops collect cards and submit them for you.

Do I need to put Pokémon cards in top loaders to grade them? Most graders ask for cards in semi rigid holders, often called card savers, rather than hard top loaders. Put each card in a penny sleeve first and check the grader's packing instructions before you ship.

Are Japanese Pokémon cards worth grading? They can be. Japanese chase cards and vintage holos in top condition often carry a strong graded premium. Run the same math as any other card: compare recent sold prices raw and graded before you pay the fee.